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I screwed up and lost track of my old board near Trail 5 at San Onofre Bluffs campground this past weekend. Seems like it walked away. If you see this board, please let me know.

Specs:

• 9'6"
• D-fin
• Serial Number 2699
• AWFUL patch-jobs on the deck
• small rounded tail block

Though it may already be on a 747 to Tokyo, it's probably not super valuable. Hope to see this thing again...

Big Wednesday. It happened the other day: one of those weeks where the buoy graphs are flat except for a sharp peak right in the middle of the week. Some storm from some far-off place sent a burst of energy our way, then stopped.

I got up a little late and saw that the bridge was jacked-up. After texting and sitting on the fence a while, I decided to just go and do it.

The paddle-out was TOUGH! I haven't been surfing nearly enough to be in shape. Also I don't remember exactly what happened on Tuesday night, but something I ate for dinner (or possible second-dinner) wanted to let me know that it was still hanging around.

I paddled for about 45 minutes, nearly barfed once, nearly gave up once. Somehow I was able to recover, find a little riptide and get outside (where I could sit and recover further).

Anyway, eventually I got lucky with a pretty sweet wave. I got luckier a few days later when someone pointed me to this:

Sweet!

Oh that was a good one. Merry Christmas!

It was pretty big out there today. I made it outside and caught a few. At one point I found myself sitting away from a group of guys when a set came in. The first two waves were nice looking and I was about in the right spot, but I let them go by. A few of the nearby guys were paddling toward me as the third, biggest one of the set came through.

A little voice in my head said, "I think I could make that."

Then I heard a loud voice from outside my head saying, "GO! PADDLE HARD!!!" That was the winning vote. I turned, paddled, and made the drop.

Yeah, I got munched right after that picture was taken. I'll figure out how to make the most of those barrely sections at some point...

Thanks Brien.

I rode a wave this morning. Thanks Darren.

It lives here.

Overheard:

• [16:22] surfer1: sigh
• [16:25] surfer2: log today, fish on easter sunday?
• [16:25] surfer2: I mean log tomorrow...
• [16:25] surfer1: hmm
• [16:25] surfer2: wasn't jesus a fisher of men?
• [16:25] surfer1: I'd like to, BUT I think it'll be crowded
• [16:25] surfer1: scared of dings
• [16:25] surfer2: isn't the fish the most christian of surfboards?
• [16:25] surfer1: thinking log tomorrow, log sunday, fish monday
• [16:25] surfer2: or is it the log?
• [16:25] surfer1: it is, people sign them with a jesus fish sign
• [16:26] surfer1: heh jesus WAS a carpenter
• [16:26] surfer2: because the cross was made of logs
• [16:26] surfer1: I think that's a kookbox